Tag Archives: college

Manufacturing Files I: Neobotanic

Welcome to the first of a series of articles dedicated to the wonderful people behind the production of Antithesis’ clothing! Finding a good manufacturer is not easy, especially for a start-up brand with tiny orders. Yet we have managed to find two London-based production units who accepted to cut and sew our reversible/modular/transformable pieces.

One of them is Neobotanic, a bespoke production unit located in the shadows of the Olympic stadium in Hackney Wick. Founded only two years ago by Olga Ankudinova, it already employs four full-time machinists and one cutter. All the workers are women who emigrated from East European countries such as Ukraine and Latvia to work in the UK, where wages are much higher. They usually work a minimum of 8 hours a day but are always happy to work overtime to compensate for the off-season period where the factory sometimes needs to shut down.

It was not part of Olga’s plans to start up her own manufacturing unit. With a fashion diploma from the St. Petersburg State Academy of Art and Design in hand, she moved to London to find her dream job. After a few months of unfruitful job hunting, she was offered a small pattern cutting and sampling contract, which then turned into a production order. With the help of a skilled friend, she spent countless hours sewing dozens of dresses, which had been cut directly on the carpet of her flat! She gradually built up her clientele by word-of-mouth.

Neobotanic is not only a manufacturer, they also design and produce women’s and men’s collections. Using bright and bold graphics inspired by natural elements such as flowers and plants, they offer their customers the chance to make a flamboyant fashion statement.

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Sustainable Fashion: From Awareness to Action

Last week, we attended a panel discussion organised by five students from MA Fashion and the Environment course at the London College of Fashion. Chaired by the dynamic Tamsin Omond from the Suffragettes-inspired environmental action group Climate Rush, the event put forward five ethical fashion experts who were asked to comment upon various issues. Speakers included Amisha Ghadiali, writer of ’12 Rules to Dress by’, three representatives from the sustainable fashion collective Here Today Here Tomorrow and Environmental Justice Foundation‘s Rebecca Attwood.

During the evening it was mentioned that there are two different ways of achieving sustainability. The first option, which is probably the most well-known, is the choice of responsible materials and a transparent supply chain. Although a strategy with great potential, it is too often an extremely difficult path to take, due to the high costs and the reluctance of the fashion industry to change.

The second option is the education of consumers, whether is it through raising awareness, encouraging slower consumption and responsible labelling. Here at Antithesis we find this alternative much more promising. For example, did you know that up to 80% of the environmental impacts of your garments are caused by laundering? Wearing your clothes a few times before washing, choosing cold water cycles and banning tumble-drying are all small actions that have great repercussions. Want to do more? Spread the word!

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The Antithesis Collective

Each season we will be working in collaboration with a new designer in order to develop a one-off product to complement our collection. This will not only enable us to expand our range, but also allow recent graduates to bring their designs to the market. For the first edition of the Antithesis Collective, we approached Charlie Goldthorpe, an artefact and accessory maker who graduated from the London College of Fashion in 2010. Combing heritage and modern craft techniques, her work has personality and aims to capture the essence of the user within the product: ‘I am excited to work with Antithesis as I love the idea of a garment or accessory being multifunctional as in today’s society we’re always on the go!  It is a fantastic challenge to design such an item and I’m thrilled to be collaborating!’.

Here are a few images from her final MA collection. Can’t wait to see the results? Neither can we!

For more info, visit Charlie’s website.

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